It was the early morning of a hot August day when I set out with my camera and my Summer Fields Cardigan, the one I had just sewn buttons on at dawn and met the sun as it was ascending from the valley, before I had even blocked the sweater. I was out photographing in the field, hanging the sweater on a rusty old fence post at the southeast corner of the high vineyard, just a short distance from our house. Suddenly, two ewes ran past me with their lambs, undoubtedly escaping the herd to find tastier grazing further up the ridge.
As I was setting up the photo, next came down from the high vineyard running after them, a girlish woman with wise eyes, a patient smile, a straw hat, and a long thick braid the color of the dried summer field. She ran past me … well, almost past … but not without introducing herself first as Sarah, with a handshake. Believe me the coincidence of the situation was remarkable; she was chasing sheep, and I was hanging a handspun, handknit wool sweater on a fence post. That was how we met, completely oblivious at the time to the imminence of she and I becoming teacher, prodigy, and friends.
That is the story of how we met. Since she lives on the mountain and works nearby, I see her whenever she has an hour to spare to weave or spin, sharing a cup of fresh ginger chai after she is done at the sheepfold, working on the projects that she wants to do, and over time I see her to the finish. On occasion a few from the herd get loose, and Juno gets to chasing them, then I call Sarah to tell her the details of where they went. Although recently they have been more settled in their seasonal fenced areas out of the vineyards while the vines are producing, protected by a huge guardian dog named Tucker whom Juno is absolutely enamored with.
In the spinning and weaving, Sarah has caught on quickly. She keeps a drop spindle tucked in her belt while she is out with the sheep, just like the Andean sheepherders do, and she has even learned to spin while walking as they do. In fact, she learned so fast that it became necessary for me to teach her backstrap weaving like the Andeans too. I provided her with one of my backstrap looms, and we learned the warping together while we watched the Laverne Waddington method in the tiny house. Her first backstrap project went quickly, and she kept up with making belts for her family. Gradually adding skills—so capable and inspired—she is now additionally weaving balanced weave on a rigid heddle loom, the first loom I learned from: the Ashford Knitter’s Loom. These are just more feathers in her cap of textile possibility.
But when she doesn’t have time to spare to come over from the sheepfold (being a homeschooling mom aside from shepherding), I decided to create a new category on my blog dedicated to showing her the necessary steps so that she can continue to learn at her home. Introducing “Notes for Sarah” which is devoted to teaching her virtually and creating and sharing a regional fiber heritage right there on the mountain ridge, passing down the slow art of spinning wool and weaving cloth, and designing our own artful woven wear. As always, it is also just a place to document and share my enthusiasm with the larger textile audience, from this far corner of the world.
Our very first project in this series is a simple summer poncho top, made specially for her to wear during these hot mountain days, and I wanted to create something approachable for a narrow panel loom that requires minimal shaping, and no cutting. We’ve been contemplating a most primitive and simple top that can be made on the Knitter’s Loom, and we have found just the thing—which is structurally very similar to a short, fringed Andean unku, and I couldn’t help myself to make one for her first, as breadcrumbs to draw her into the siren’s call of handwoven clothing!
Please note that the pattern and instructional concept are entirely the creative property of Fran Caselli. I followed her generous YouTube tutorial to create this piece. I very much admire her teaching, and I hope you visit her Fran Caselli Community Design Hub to see her beautiful and inspiring work!
♣ Notes for Sarah ♣
Sarah, let me give you the most important note of all; that is to make a test swatch if you can, so that you can cut it off the loom, wash and dry it, then measure the epi (ends per inch, or threads per inch) of the finished preshrunk sample, then factor that in as your bottom line. I did this (there is a photo of my swatch in the gallery below) and yet, when following Fran’s instructions on her YouTube video, my brain apparently hiccupped. That is, I calculated her measurements as on the loom, not doing the math required to make use of the swatch, and calculate the number of ends needed to make the measurements for the finished piece. As a result, in my embarrassment, the “Fran Blusa” is much smaller than I wanted it to be, by several inches! Due to the fact, I haven’t washed and dried it like I did the swatch for then it would have shrunk even more (it will need handwashing I’m afraid). Always factor in percentage for take-up, loom waste, and most importantly — finished shrinkage!
My only defense really, is that this is the first time I ever wove a thing that is to be clothing and must be a “correct” finished size, as my weaving thus far has always been for scarves, and things that don’t need to be a particular measurement. Had I measured my swatch epi, I would have realized, but I made the swatch, then disregarded it. Making clothing from weaving is essential to make test swatch. In closing, the whole notes below are minimized as a result of my horrific miscalculation they were rendered somewhat useless.
- Yarn: I used Berrocco Splash, 131y/120m = 50g, 70% Viscose, 30% Organic Cotton, DK, in “Laguna”. Fran’s instructions call for a similar DK yarn.
- Loom: Rigid heddle loom, 30cm/12″ or wider (shown in this project is my Ashford 16″ rigid heddle loom.)
- Warp: Easy direct warp method for rigid heddle, 1 end in hole and 1 end in slot.
- Reed: 7.5 dent rigid heddle reed
- Width in reed: 30cm/12″
- Finished: Fran Caselli’s instructions in her video show instruction for the Andean Braids, and also there is a video from her channel devoted just for Andean braid. (( note: although the Andean Braid looks really beautiful, I ended up going with my default fringe; the cable twisted, which I will show you in person)).








Oh my goodness, SOOO cute! Lovely bright colors in the softest mist. What a lovely piece for a shepherdess!
Thank you Sweet Pea!