Seeking a Snowy Oasis

Pure, clear, and fresh. These words come to mind as I weave my white linen. My shuttle seems determined as I pass it from hand to hand through the narrow shed in my little Brooklyn table loom, each pass of the weft is necessary, and deliberate, while at the same time I operate the hand levers, the shafts changing as if the warp is inhaling and exhaling. The long warp feels like an exhausting important journey to test me, and I embrace it.

But already I am anticipating the next, which will begin after I cut this cloth off the loom. I think about how it will be… a very simple and easy warp, also fine linen, also in white, also in plain weave, but with very sparse pattern, if any, as only my own soul knows how I’ve longed to weave. I am thinking about the beauty of clarity, and newness, and the meaning behind my white fine linen threads, how it is so much like freshly fallen snow. The white linen and the white snow are nearly parallel symbolisms to me because they are untainted and honest, they are raw and pure, they are elemental.

My mind drifts back to the absolute stillness of a winter landscape I remember from not long ago. In my archives I found the post of that day when the snow fell so heavily, and silently in the night, to have woken up to such a deep white landscape I’d never before seen up here. Now to remember it, bringing out the image of that view from my loft studio window, I can almost feel and smell the frigid air in my nostrils. While my hands march through the endless second half of the warp, I’ll drift in my mind to a snowy oasis, to stay driven in the weaving towards the finish.

floating

Things are floating presently. These mornings the dense fog floats up towards the mountain from the valley, the floating selvedge weights hang suspended until the weaving is finished, and even the most subtle windowpane texture seems to float in the cloth. And I have been floating too; between resolve and distraction, between cool mornings and warm afternoons, between the first half of the warp, and now the second.

I have been making steady progress. It is a quiet kind of work as I study and admire the linen, and I find myself enjoying the rhythm of the loom, especially while things are even more quiet than usual, even more still than usual. Weaving linen requires a lot of focus, much like any important journey. I’m keeping at it, and watching my “weavers’ angle”, even in the times I’m not writing as much, it is because the work itself is a way of staying connected.

And as I have finally reached a bit of a turning point, having woven half the warp, I feel suspended and hanging a bit, like the floating selvedge weights, yet at the same time I feel things notching-up with excitement to finish, finding it interesting how focus becomes clearer once you finally sense the end ahead.

Cloth No.3

This textured plain weave cloth was mostly improvised, and I got swept up in the weaving of it, so if I hadn’t made the notes when I was planning it, I wouldn’t have had any at all. The weft windowpane motif did not look as I planned so I experimented different ways throughout the weaving (see weaving notes below). Above all, I’m so glad I tried this cotton; it is organic, and an off-white cream color, with those little dark flecks raw muslin typically has, unnoticeable in its yarn form. It happens to be the only 20/2 weight I could find that is not mercerized, it has a very soft buttery feel and is a good value as it is available in 1 or 5 lb cones. In future weaving with this cotton, I will warp the yarn at 24 epi, which would be sheer, and also at 40 epi would be crisp and dense. The cloth series is for me to understand the spectrum between sheer and dense weave and finding the ultimate balance to my personal liking.

I’m very much enjoying this simple basic Ashford Brooklyn 4 shaft table loom for weaving fine cloth, even more than the Ashford 8 shaft table loom, because it is easier to thread and sley, being the castle (the part housing the 4 shafts) is smaller, it is just easier to set up. It is Ashford’s “transition” loom, for those rigid heddle weavers to learn multi shaft weaving, but I think it is a lovely small tabletop loom that can do anything.

♣   Weaving Notes  ♣

About sleying 2 ends per dent — in managing such a high epi, the only way I am willing to weave multiple ends per dent in such fine cloth is to keep it easy and have the consistency of 2-in-1, always, and just have the right reed so that I can do that. Patterning is a lot to keep track of all on its own, without the added complication of spacing variable numbers in the reed, so an even number is essential for me to help me keep track of the threading straight draw. Probably cramming 4 ends per dent is really too many if the warp is a close sett, leaving reed marks like in Cloth #2 did, and even though it likely will even out in the wash, I don’t care to have reed marks at all.

  • Yarn: 20/2 cotton, 8400yds / 1 lb, non-mercerized  Organic Cotton Plus.
  • Loom: Ashford Brooklyn 4-shaft Table Loom, straight draw threading for plain weave, lifting pairs of odds & evens (1&3, and 2&4)
  • Warping method:  115 ” from from back apron rod to far peg. 
    • Direct warp method, from back through front to peg, while double threading from back apron rod through heddles and reed, then to peg — which creates 2 ends in a pull, at the same time sleying 2 per dent, threading 2 ends through each 1&3 shaft heddles, leaving 2&4 empty.
    • Then I wound on to back beam and finally tied off on to front for weaving, then rethreaded 1 end in every heddle 1-2-3-4, in small sections, tying off as I finished with tension, so the warp was always under tension.
  • Number of warp ends:  552 (544 + 4 extra ends per selvedge)
  • Reed: 16-dent, 256 dents total in Ashford 16″ reed.
  • Width in reed: 15.5″
  • Sett on loom: 32epi, with doubled ends for windowpane “ridges”.
  • Selvedges: 4 extra ends at each selvedge and used a temple to keep width in reed.
  • Sett after finishing: Warp 35 epi, and weft 35 ppi.
  • Pattern in Warp & Weft: For texture in warp, I threaded 2 ends per heddle, for 2 heddles next to each other, and spaced approx 2″ apart, which created a dense texture probably too wide, so in weft I did not pay too close attention but made a “crammed” weft with 2 to 6 ends, over 1 to 3 picks, basically I experimented;
    • 1. Weft passes in the same shed 4 or more times, catching the outside selvedge thread.
    • 2. Weft passes in the same shed 2 or 3 times, changing shed for a single, then repeating the shed with 2 or 3 passes. This probably most mimics the warp.
    • 3. Winding the shuttle bobbin with 4 threads, passing once , then the regular weft single once, then another pass of 4 threads, this probably looked the best but the ends had to be overlapped and ended up standing out a bit and creating difficult selvedges.
  • Finished: Raw edge not hemmed, not fringed, just cut and frayed in the wash. Washed by hand in very warm water, partially dried in machine, then steam pressed, measuring 80″ long and 14.5” wide, and weighs 117g. 
  • Yardage:  Total yardage used for finished piece = 2,167y, figured from weight of finished piece and not including loom waste.
  • Note: From my experience of sheer to heavy cottons, this feels medium weight, which is still draping quality, and soft. It was woven at 32epi, so I think weaving 24epi would give it the sheer light weight feel, but probably shrink a little more because of all the air space in the mesh. Woven at 40 would be the maximum I think.