Category: My Brooklyn 4-shaft Loom

floating

Published on by Jen2 Comments

Things are floating presently. These mornings the dense fog floats up towards the mountain from the valley, the floating selvedge weights hang suspended until the weaving is finished, and even the most subtle windowpane texture seems to float in the cloth. And I have been floating too; between resolve and distraction, between cool mornings and warm afternoons, between the first half of the warp, and now the second.

I have been making steady progress. It is a quiet kind of work as I study and admire the linen, and I find myself enjoying the rhythm of the loom, especially while things are even more quiet than usual, even more still than usual. Weaving linen requires a lot of focus, much like any important journey. I’m keeping at it, and watching my “weavers’ angle”, even in the times I’m not writing as much, it is because the work itself is a way of staying connected.

And as I have finally reached a bit of a turning point, having woven half the warp, I feel suspended and hanging a bit, like the floating selvedge weights, yet at the same time I feel things notching-up with excitement to finish, finding it interesting how focus becomes clearer once you finally sense the end ahead.

Cloth No.1

Published on by Jen6 Comments

This morning early, I was impatient for the light to come, giving the muse a rest, and the loom too. Nothing is distorted or broken in the weave, after-all. It went through wash and dry, and a ritual of steam pressing — it is more than fine, it survived my incessant nervous worry as I wove through the last many days, and my misunderstanding of the warp is now an embarrassment, but essential part of the lesson, because really, in the end there is no sacrifice, it is a perfect piece of cloth.

Warp and weft together leave their home, are cut off the loom as if saying goodbye to their birthplace, for a marriage in a journey together for the life of the cloth. Purifying their bond in the water, for wet finishing is when the fibers bloom, the tension evens out, the blatant flaws heal and become only subtle scars. The loom is silent for a short while, and the cloth is folded and stashed away, along with its own potential, as it was meant to be.

♣   Weaving Notes  ♣

  • Yarn: 20/2 mercerized perle cotton, 8400yds / 1 lb, Maurice Brassard, in colors Beige (P-2), Natural (P-100), Turquoise (P-401), Rose (P-145), and Flax (P-5104).
  • Loom: Ashford Brooklyn 4-shaft Table Loom, straight draw threading for plain weave, lifting pairs of odds & evens (1&3, and 2&4)
  • Warping method:  Tested an easy direct warp method, back to front; double threading from back apron rod through heddles and reed, then to peg. Wound on to back beam and finally tied off on to front for weaving.
  • Number of warp ends: Warped in couplets of 20/2, each couplet counts as 1 end. 380 plus 2 extra at each selvedge = 384 ends
  • Reed: 16 dent reed, 2 ends in each dent and 2 ends in each heddle.
  • Width in reed: forgot to measure.
  • Sett on loom: 20epi
  • Selvedges: 4 extra ends at each selvedge and used a temple to keep width in reed.
  • Sett after finishing: Warp 24 epi, and weft 12 ppi.
  • Color Pattern Warp: { 8 ends beige, [4 ends turquoise, 16 ends beige]x8, 4 ends turquoise, 16 ends rose}, 4 ends Flax, mirror reverse { … }.
  • Pattern Weft: No pattern, just one color, Natural (P-100), used shuttle.
  • Finished: 1/4 inch turned hem, then washed and dried in machine, then steam pressed, measuring 80″ long and 14″ wide, and weighs 128g. 
  • Yardage:  Total yardage used for finished piece = 2370y, figured from weight of finished piece and not including loom waste.

Four Shafts

Published on by Jen3 Comments

I have been craving weaving yards and yards of narrow width, fine cloth, on just a simple little table loom like this, my new Brooklyn four-shaft loom. Using the finest weight cotton and linen threads that I can find, higher epi (ends per inch) should not be so overwhelming with only 16 inches weaving width, shoulder width, therefore it is very ergonomic and a great way to weave longer pieces. I like to stand while I weave, so I have set up the Brooklyn on my loft table which is also my desk, sharing space with everything else, and I can take breaks often to weave a few inches here and there. Just having it there with a long warp waiting, is so inviting. I started weaving my first project, with a hybrid direct warp method, using only the number of heddles for 20epi that the loom comes with, and next time I will add heddles and weave 40 epi. Even though the inexpensive Brooklyn comes unfinished, I waxed all of the pieces before assembling, and I don’t even mind that the sides are plywood, I wanted a little loom just like this one on which to learn to weave ultra fine — at my own pace.